The Science: Linoleic vs. Oleic Acid
Not all oils are greasy. The "heaviness" of an oil depends on its fatty acid composition. Knowing
this helps you pick the right one for your skin type.
1. Linoleic Acid (Omega-6) 🟢
Texture: Lightweight, "dry" oil.
Best for: Oily and Acne-Prone Skin.
Why: Acne patients have been shown to have low levels of linoleic acid in their
sebum, which makes their oil sticky and cloggy. Adding high-linoleic oils fixes this balance.
Examples: Rosehip, Grapeseed, Hemp Seed, Squalane.
2. Oleic Acid (Omega-9) 🟡
Texture: Rich, heavy, luxurious.
Best for: Dry and Aging Skin.
Why: These oils are incredibly moisturizing and can penetrate deeper into the skin
to repair extreme dryness. However, they can be too heavy for acne-prone skin.
Examples: Marula, Olive, Avocado, Almond.
Carrier Oils vs. Essential Oils (Safety Warning) ⚠️
This is where most people burn their faces.
- Carrier Oils (Safe): These are plant-based fatty oils (like Jojoba, Rosehip,
Argan). You can apply them directly to your face safely.
- Essential Oils (Volatile): These are concentrated aromatic compounds (like Tea
Tree, Lavender, Lemon). NEVER apply these directly to skin. They will cause
chemical burns. They must be diluted in a Carrier Oil (1 drop of essential oil per 1 tablespoon
of carrier oil).
The Comedogenic Scale (Read This First)
Not all oils are created equal. The Comedogenic Scale rates oils from 0 to 5 based
on how likely they are to clog pores.
- Rating 0-1 (Safe for Acne): Squalane, Hemp Seed, Argan, Rosehip.
- Rating 2-3 (Good for Dry Skin): Jojoba, Almond, Olive.
- Rating 4-5 (Pore Clogging - Avoid on Face): Coconut Oil, Wheat Germ Oil.
Golden Rule: If you are acne-prone, never put Coconut Oil on your face.
📊 Comparison Table: Top 10 Face Oils
Best Face Oils (Detailed Reviews)
1. Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil — Best Overall
Best for: Anyone wanting a luxurious, deeply hydrating oil that absorbs quickly.
Key benefits: Marula oil is rich in critical antioxidants (tocopherol tocotrienol),
phenolic compounds, and flavonoids that preserve and protect the skin. Drunk Elephant's version is
untouched by chemicals or heat, remaining pure.
Pros:
- Incredibly pure processing
- Absorbs fast (silicone feel without silicone)
- Fragrance-free
Cons:
- Very expensive for a single oil
Who should buy it: The luxury shopper who wants the best single-ingredient oil.
2. The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane — Best Value
Best for: Oily or acne-prone skin that needs lightweight hydration.
Key benefits: Squalane helps support the skin’s moisture barrier. It is
non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) and mimics the skin's natural oils. This product is 100% pure and
costs $10.
Pros:
- Unbeatable price
- Stable (won't oxidize)
- Weightless texture
Cons:
Who should buy it: Everyone. It's the perfect starter oil.
3. Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil — Best Anti-Aging
Best for: People trying to prevent lines and redness simultaneously.
Key benefits: A retinol oil. It combines Trans-retinoic acid ester complex with Blue
Tansy and German Chamomile. The blue color disappears as you rub it in. It soothes redness while
fighting wrinkles.
Pros:
- Contains Retinol (anti-aging)
- Blue Tansy calms redness
- Unique formula
Cons:
- Contains dye (Blue 1/Green 6)
- Expensive ($105)
Who should buy it: If you want retinol benefits but find creams too drying.
4. Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil — Best Brightening
Best for: Dull skin that needs a glow-up.
Key benefits: Uses oil-soluble Vitamin C (THD Ascorbate) which is highly stable and
effective. The squalane base locks in moisture while the Vitamin C brightens. Plus, it smells
incredible (natural rose).
Pros:
- Brightens and hydrates
- Beautiful packaging
- Cruelty-free and vegan
Cons:
- Rose scent (if you hate floral)
Who should buy it: If you want that "glass skin" look.
5. Herbivore Lapis Blue Tansy Face Oil — Best for Acne
Best for: Oily and blemish-prone skin.
Key benefits: Blue Tansy is famous for its anti-inflammatory properties. It reduces
redness and balances hydration. It contains Azulene, which soothes dry irritated skin and reduces
the appearance of redness.
Pros:
- Doesn't clog pores
- Calms angry zits
- Beautiful natural blue color
Cons:
- Scent is herbal/medicinal
- Pricey
Who should buy it: If you think you can't wear oil because you have acne.
6. The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil — Best for Scars
Best for: Fading acne scars and pigmentation.
Key benefits: Rosehip oil is naturally rich in Vitamin A (natural retinol) and fatty
acids. It promotes cell regeneration. It is the go-to natural remedy for acne scars.
Pros:
- Natural Vitamin A
- Cheap ($10)
- Cold-pressed (preserves nutrients)
Cons:
- Earthly/fishy smell (it's natural)
- Short shelf life (refrigerate it!)
Who should buy it: Those dealing with post-acne marks.
7. Josie Maran 100% Pure Argan Oil — Best for Dry Skin
Best for: Seriously dry, flaky skin. Multi-use (hair, nails, body).
Key benefits: The oil that started the Argan craze. It is rich in Vitamin E and
essential fatty acids. It’s a heavier oil that provides intense, deep moisture.
Pros:
- Intense hydration
- Organic and pure
- Multipurpose
Cons:
Who should buy it: If your skin feels tight and dry.
8. Cliganic Organic Jojoba Oil — Best Budget
Best for: A cheap, effective multipurpose carrier oil.
Key benefits: Jojoba oil is technically a wax ester, which makes it chemically
similar to human sebum. Your skin recognizes it and drinks it up. It balances oil production.
Pros:
- Cheap ($10 for a huge bottle)
- Non-comedogenic
- Good for removing makeup too
Cons:
- Not a "fancy" formulation
Who should buy it: DIY lovers and budget shoppers.
9. Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate — Best Night Oil
Best for: Waking up looking rested.
Key benefits: A blend of Lavender, Evening Primrose, and Squalane. It smells like a
spa and is designed to repair the skin barrier overnight. A cult classic for a reason.
Pros:
- Amazing scent (lavender)
- Lightweight texture
- Very popular gift item
Cons:
- Contains essential oils (potential irritants)
Who should buy it: If you enjoy aromatherapy and sensory skincare.
10. Bio-Oil Skincare Oil — Best for Body/Marks
Best for: Stretch marks and body scars.
Key benefits: While often used on the face, we prefer it for the body. It uses
PurCellin Oil™ to reduce thickness and make it absorb easily. Famous for pregnancy stretch marks.
Pros:
- Proven track record for stretch marks
- Cheap
- Available everywhere
Cons:
- Mineral oil base (some avoid this)
- Strong scent
Who should buy it: Pregnant women or those with body scars.
How to Choose by Skin Type
- Oily/Acne-Prone: Choose high-linoleic acids like Rosehip, Squalane, or Hemp
Seed. Avoid Coconut or Olive oil.
- Dry Skin: Choose high-oleic acids like Marula, Argan, or Avocado.
These are richer and sit on top to seal moisture.
- Sensitive Skin: Stick to single-ingredient oils like Jojoba or
Squalane. Avoid blends with essential oils (Lavender, Mint, etc.).
The Application Masterclass: How to Use Face Oil
Slapping oil on your face isn't enough. You need technique to make it absorb.
1. The "Sandwich" Method (For Dry Skin) 🥪
Oil is an occlusive. It seals moisture IN, but it doesn't add water. If you put oil on dry skin, you
are just sealing in dryness.
The Order: Cleanse → Hydrating Serum (Hyaluronic Acid) → Moisturizer
→ OIL.
2. The "Warm & Press" Technique 👐
Never rub oil into your face like a lotion. It can cause friction and redness.
- Dispense 3 drops into your palm.
- Rub your hands together vigorously to warm the oil.
- PRESS your palms into your cheeks, forehead, and chin.
- The heat helps the oil penetrate deeper.
3. The "Gua Sha" Glide 🪨
Face oils are the perfect companion for Gua Sha or facial massage because they provide "slip" so you
don't drag your skin.
- Step 1: Apply a generous amount of oil (5-6 drops) to face and neck.
- Step 2: Hold your Gua Sha tool flat against your skin (15-degree angle).
- Step 3: Scrape upwards from your jawline to your ear to drain lymph fluids.
- Step 4: Wiggle the tool at the ear to release tension.
4. The "Foundation Hack" 💄
Is your matte foundation looking cakey? Mix one drop of face oil into your
foundation on the back of your hand before applying. It creates a sheer, dewy finish that looks like
real skin.
❌ 3 Common Face Oil Mistakes
- Applying instead of moisturizer. As we said above, oil needs water underneath
it to work.
- Using too much. You will look like a greaseball. Start with 2 drops. You can
always add more.
- Using kitchen oils. Coconut oil is highly comedogenic (pore-clogging). Olive
oil is very heavy (good for body, risky for face). Stick to cosmetic-grade oils.
✅ Quick Summary Checklist
- ☑️ Best Overall: Drunk Elephant Marula
- ☑️ Best Value: The Ordinary Squalane
- ☑️ Best for Acne: Herbivore Lapis
- ☑️ Best for Scars: Rosehip Seed Oil
- ☑️ Apply LAST in your routine (over moisturizer).
❓ Dermatologist Q&A: Face Oil Edition
1. Will face oil make me break out?
Only if you choose the wrong one. Avoid comedogenic oils like Coconut, Wheat Germ, or Cocoa Butter.
Stick to high-linoleic oils like Squalane or Rosehip, and you will be fine.
2. Can I use it in the morning?
Yes, but use just 1-2 drops and let it absorb for 5 minutes before applying sunscreen. If you use too
much, your makeup will slide off.
3. Does oil go before or after moisturizer?
After. Think of it like a winter coat. You wouldn't wear your coat under your
sweater. The oil seals everything else in.
4. I have oily skin. Do I really need oil?
Yes. Oily skin is often dehydrated. When you strip it, it produces more oil
to compensate. Adding a "dry" oil like Squalane tells your skin "we have enough oil now," and it
actually slows down its own sebum production.
5. Can I use face oil for Dermaplaning?
Absolutely. Never shave dry skin! Apply a thin layer of oil before using your tinkle
razor or dermaplaning tool. It prevents razor burn and micro-cuts.
6. How do I know if my oil has expired?
The Smell Test. Fresh oil smells earthy or nutty. Rancid oil smells like old crayons
or play-dough. If it smells like crayons, toss it. It causes free radical damage.
7. Should I keep oils in the fridge?
Unstable oils like Rosehip and Vitamin C oils last longer in the
fridge. Stable oils like Marula and Jojoba are fine on the shelf (out of direct sunlight).
8. Can I mix oil into my moisturizer?
Yes! If you don't like the greasy feeling of layering, mix 2 drops into your night cream in your
palm. It creates a rich, sleeping-mask texture.
9. Can I use hair oil on my face?
Generally No. Hair oils often contain heavy silicones and fragrances that clog
facial pores. Stick to oils formulated for the face.
10. Is it safe for pregnancy?
Most single oils (Marula, Argan, Jojoba) are safe. Avoid Retinol oils (like Sunday Riley Luna) and
check with your doctor about essential oil blends.
Deep Dive: The Science of Comedogenic Ratings 🧪
The "Comedogenic Scale" is the most cited yet misunderstood tool in skincare. Developed originally
on rabbit ears in the 1970s, it has since been refined for human skin. Here is what the numbers
actually
mean for your face oils:
Rating 0 (Non-Comedogenic)
Will not clog pores for anyone. Examples: Squalane, Argan,
Hemp
Seed.
Rating 5 (Highly Comedogenic)
Almost guaranteed to cause breakouts in oily skin. Examples:
Coconut Oil, Wheat Germ Oil.
The Caveat: Formulations matter. A tiny amount of rating-4 oil in a rating-0 base
might be perfectly safe. Always check the first 5 ingredients.
The History of Face Oils: From Nefertiti to Now 👑
Face oils aren't a "trend"—they are the oldest form of skincare in human history. Archeologists have
found jars of Moringa oil in Ancient Egyptian tombs, still preserved after 3,000 years.
- Ancient Egypt: Queen Nefertiti used Castor and Almond oil to maintain
her legendary complexion in the desert heat.
- Ancient Rome: Gladiators used Olive oil to clean their skin and keep
it
supple under heavy armor.
- Pre-Colonial Americas: Indigenous tribes used Prickly Pear and Jojoba
for wound healing and sun protection.
We are simply rediscovering the wisdom of ancestors who knew that plants provide the most potent
protection for the skin barrier.
🔗 Related Articles
Face Oil Cheat Sheet (Save This!) 📌
Goal: Glow & Hydrate
Use: Marula, Argan, Camellia
Goal: Fight Acne
Use: Blue Tansy, Tea Tree, Black Cumin Seed
Goal: Fade Scars
Use: Rosehip, Tamanu, Sea Buckthorn
Goal: Balance Oily Skin
Use: Squalane, Jojoba, Grapeseed
Goal: Anti-Aging
Use: Prickly Pear, Pomegranate, Retinol Oils
Final Thoughts
Face oils are the secret weapon for healthy, glowing skin. They repair the barrier that harsh
cleansers destroy.
If you are scared, start with The Ordinary Squalane. It’s $10 and impossible to mess
up. For a splurge that feels like heaven, Drunk Elephant Marula is worth the hype.
Just remember: less is more.
Ivana Dsouza
Beauty editor and skincare researcher at NxtLifestyle. Dedicated to finding
scientifically-backed products that actually work.